Slow drainage? Ceased drainage? Why? What to do?

When sewer lines cease to drain or drain slowly, the most sensible and most economical approach is to use a sewer auger machine properly fitted with a strong cable and correctly sized cutter blade to clean the line. However, although this is arguably the best primary approach, when defects are present within the line, sometimes drainage can not be restored in this manner.

What to do next?

The next step is to perform a video inspection of the problematic sewer line. As the sewer camera is fed into the sewer line, the footage is displayed on a monitor for inspection. Video inspections help identify collapsed portions, perforations, sags (aka “bellies”) and/or separations, within the line. Furthermore, most cameras are able to pinpoint the location of any of the above mentioned problems (to which I will address individually).

Collapsed Sewer Line

Sewer lines comprised of Bituminized Fiber Pipe (orangeburg) and/or cast iron are most notorious for collapsing. Unfortunately, should even a small section of a line collapse, typically it is best (if not necessary) to replace that line.

Perforations

Perforations are a series of holes within a line. Perforations are typically unique to lines comprised of cast iron. Such lines tend to weaken hastily and are probable to collapse (not to mention the propensity for root infiltration). When this condition is discovered, it is best to replace the line.

Bellies

Bellies are low spots in a line. These can exist in sewer lines comprised of any material; however, are most common in PVC. Unfortunately, most bellies could have been avoided if the line had been properly bedded when installed. The only way to correct a belly is to repair the line manually.

When a line has a low spot or a sag, the line will hold water similarly to a p-trap. Luckily, many bellies are not habitually problematic. Many exist and cause no inherent problem nor present any inconvenience.

Problems may occur should paper or other solids settle in the sag and not be flushed through, occasionally resulting in a “soft” blockage. These soft blockages, although inconvenient, can often be easily addressed by inserting a manual sewer auger, an electrician’s “fish tape”, or a garden hose (attached to a hose bibb WITH a vacuum breaker) through the sewer clean outs to push the blockage. Once pushed, additional water fed into the sewer line will usually put the final touches on getting those solids into the sewer main.

Sewer Line Separation

Simply stated, the sewer line has come apart. This is often due to ground movement (whether natural or external). Sometimes, although ground movement may have caused the separation, workmanship could be the problem. Particularly on PVC systems, it is inexcusable for a joint to pull apart (a properly solvent welded pvc joint should never pull apart). Cracked joints is another issue altogether. Whatever the case, the line must be repaired.

THIS IS CRITICAL!

It is very common to find separations by or at the municipality’s sewer tap. AAA AUGER recommends that should such a separation be discovered, the municipal sewer department be called to see if they will make the repair at no cost. This could save you hundreds upon hundreds of dollars.

Whatever drainage problems you may encounter, AAA AUGER will find the solution.

Whether equipped with a conventional or a tankless water heater, both are susceptible to structural failure and may result in property damage caused by flooding.

Modern plumbing codes have attempted to address some of these issues by requiring a drain pan beneath conventional water heaters. However, leaks on or at water heaters are often pressurized and tend to spray beyond the area of the drain pan.

Even worse, depending upon the location of the heater, these leaks can go undetected until severe property damage occurs.

The best defense for such problems is routine inspection and maintenance. However, when faced with a leaking or flooding water heater:

(1) Turn the water supply “off”.

It is imperative that the heater have a working shut off valve. Many years ago, the shut off valves installed on water heaters were typically of the gate valve style. These valves are still very common today. Unfortunately, these valves can be very problematic and often do not fully close (see gate valves for more information). AAA AUGER recommends that gate valves always be replaced with ball valves for residential water heater applications.

(2) Turn the power or gas “off” to the heater.

(3) If the leak is coming from the tank or if the heater is to be replaced, drain the water heater (follow steps 1-8 in the Water Flushing Procedure. Upon draining, close the drain valve on heater.

(4) Address leaks as necessary.

(5) Thoroughly remediate water spillages/floods.

(6) Purge/bleed water system. (Follow Steps 11 – 13 of the Water Heater Flushing Procedure)

(7) Restore power to heater.

Remember, AAA AUGER is available around the clock, every day to assist when needed. Also, AAA AUGER has teamed with several water extraction companies committed to service. It has become industry standard for water extraction companies to pay a referral fee to individuals or companies who make such referrals.

AAA AUGER DOES NOT ACCEPT KICK BACKS from vendors whom we recommend. Instead we demand that these vendors pass the savings to our customer.

AAA AUGER believes in offering our customers the most viable repair options together with sound advice.

With regard to potable water slab leaks, AAA AUGER recommends rerouting the leaking line rather than attempting to repair it. Assuming code was followed correctly, it is probable the leak has been caused by one of the following :

1. Friction; poor bedding or protection against friction
2. Poor Workmanship
3. Dissimilar Metal Corrosion (Electrolysis)
4. Corrosion Erosion
5. Binding (due to ground movement)

Because equipment necessary to see through concrete is not readily available, it is impossible to predetermine the cause of the leak. Unfortunately, any of the above listed causes usually affect the entire line. Therefore, when confronted with an initial leak, other leaks usually follow. For this reason and because of the costs associated with such a repair, several things should be considered.

Reroute

If a long term solution is desired, AAA AUGER recommends eliminating the defective line rather than repairing it. This is accomplished by retiring the defective line and routing a new one above the foundation. Although routing the line overhead is most common, other options may be available.

Slab Penetration

Many customers choose to repair the line rather than rerouting it. To reroute a water line, walls must be accessed. This requires services not offered by AAA AUGER (drywall repair, paint, wall paper, etc.). Furthermore, reroutes tend to require more time. However, there are some risks associated with slab penetrations.

Structural members, refrigerant lines, electrical lines or other utilities may be damaged when penetrating a slab. Repair to any of these lines may be very expensive. Although AAA AUGER will use caution when penetrating the foundation, AAA AUGER will not be responsible for any repair costs associated with damages to the abovementioned lines or structural members. Furthermore, many engineers agree that foundations should only be penetrated as a last resort.

Problematic to spot repair is the higher probability for error when attempting to pinpoint the leak. Although, AAA AUGER uses state of the art electronic leak detection equipment, there are some factors that can cause inaccurate readings. Occasionally, water lines are installed in conduits. Water leaks can create voids or caverns. These are just a couple of scenarios that may result in misdiagnosis. When performing a leak isolation and pinpoint test, that point is marked where the reading is strongest.

When the foundation is accessed and a water-tight repair achieved, concrete will be pack-poured up to 1/4″ of grade. This will allow for future floating to assure a level surface. If desired, a rough finish can be provided flush with the slab; however, AAA AUGER does not guarantee the grade.

AAA AUGER guarantees a slab leak spot repair for 365 days. Our warranty is limited to the actual repair joint itself. Our warranty does not cover any water damage or charges beyond our back pour of the concrete.

Conclusion

Most plumbers prefer providing a spot repair over rerouting. Spot repairs tend to be more profitable than reroutes due to material costs. However, when considering the costs for either service, reroutes are often the better value and certainly the best long term solution.

Fresh water is a luxury that most of us take for granted despite it being our most important resource. It may be hard to believe, but in some countries, there are those who have never seen fresh water flowing from a faucet. Some of whom, as part of their daily routine, must walk miles to retrieve fresh water for their families.

Efforts to conserve water have grown considerably. Plumbing fixtures are becoming increasingly more efficient. Rain water reclamation devices are becoming more popular. Many commercial establishments are using waterless urinals. Rain monitoring devices, moisture and wind sensors are available for irrigation systems. Some municipal water districts have limited lawn irrigation to specific days or between specific hours. All of these efforts are making a difference. However, only when we have changed our habits and increased our awareness will we be most effective.

How can you make a difference?

Irrigation System Inspection

Poorly maintained and/or improperly calibrated irrigation systems account for a significant volume of wasted water. Irrigation systems should be inspected frequently for missing or broken sprinkler heads and misdirected water streams. Irrigation systems with timers should be calibrated to avoid over watering.

Plumbing System Maintenance and Repair

Dripping faucets, worn out flush valves and/or flappers in toilets and defective T & P valves on water heaters can account for thousands of gallons of wasted water annually in a single household

Responsibly correcting these problems will make a difference.

Water Usage

Changing our habits when using water is important. Obviously, the less time we spend in the shower will lower our usage. However, here are some other habit changing suggestions that will make a difference:

1. Run full loads in washing machines and dishwashers.
2. Turn water off while brushing teeth until time to rinse.
3. For men while shaving, fill the sink with rinse water for the razor rather than using a constant stream.
4. Use a nozzle with a shut off on garden hoses.
5. Use garbage disposals sparingly. Compost vegetable food waste instead.
6. Water your lawn and garden in the morning or evening when temperatures are cooler to minimize evaporation.
7. Use a broom or blower to clean driveways and sidewalks rather than water.
8. When running a bath, plug the tub before turning the water on, then adjust the temperature as necessary.
9. Use a single cup each day for drinking water to avoid washing several.
10. Soak dishes in sudsy water and clean rather than using running water.
11. Avoid thawing food with running water.
12. Avoid watering lawns on windy days.
13. Do not use the toilet as a trash receptacle.

Other Water Conserving Recommendations

1. Choose grasses, plants and shrubs that are drought tolerant.
2. Collect rain water to water plants.
3. Spread mulch around plants, trees and in flower beds.
4. Use drip irrigation for shrubs and trees rather than conventional sprinklers.
5. Install covers on pools and spas to slow evaporation.
6. If hot water is slow to arrive to a faucet, install a circulating pump on the water heater. Thousands of gallons of water are wasted daily when waiting for hot water.
7. If water runs off your lawn easily, split watering times into shorter periods to allow for better absorption.
8. Replace older toilets with water efficient models.

If water conservation is important to you, there are many other ways in which you can make a difference. In addition to developing new usage habits, updating plumbing fixtures with new low consumption models can equally have an impact. Furthermore, many municipalities may offer incentives for upgrades. For more details please contact your local municipal water district, or contact AAA AUGER for further assistance.

Municipal website information (for municipalities within our service areas) may be found on our web page; Municipal Directory. Please select your appropriate market for that information.

A stopped up or overflowing toilet is certainly inconvenient. Worse, an overflowing toilet can cause property damage or create an unsanitary environment. Sometimes toilets, when flushed, drain slowly. In either situation, it is important to determine the source of the problem.

Because all drains tie into the sewer, if backed up, other drains will cease to flow. Usually, the shower or tub are the first to show symptoms. If the clog exists within the toilet itself, a plunger will usually remedy the problem. However, stubborn clogs may require a closet auger.

When using a closet auger, care should be exercised to avoid breaking the toilet or scratching the porcelain. Most closet augers are fitted with a protective rubber sleeve at the point where the cable exits the housing.

Sewer clogs are best addressed with an Auger Machine.

Whatever the case, the problem needs to be resolved. Below are some tips to help isolate the problem.

Is the clog within the toilet only, or has the sewer stopped up?

To isolate the blockage, run water into the closet bath tub or shower drain. If, after a couple of minutes, the water ceases to drain, the clog is within the sewer line or building drain. Of course, if the water drains properly, the clog is most likely within the toilet.

My toilet flushes slowly – HELP!

A toilet will flush slowly for several reasons. Obviously, restrictions or partial stoppages within the drain system will cause such problems. However, poor water delivery within the toilet itself will lead to the same results. To determine the cause, perform the following procedure:

Pour water from a bucket into the toilet.

If the water drains properly, the problem is within the toilet.

This may be attributed to mineral deposits within the bowl jets. In severe cases, the throat of the toilet itself may have become heavily deposited. An improperly calibrated fill valve may also cause such problems.

When the bowl jets become clogged, they may be cleaned with a rigid piece of wire (a metal coat hanger often works well).

Should it be discovered that the throat of the toilet is heavily deposited with mineral, replacement of the toilet is often the most economical solution. However, it may be possible to have the toilet cleaned in an acid bath. This is dangerous and should be left to a professional. Because of the costs associated with such service, only in those rare situations where color match is of importance, is this a viable option.

If the water does not drain properly, the problem is within the drain.

Slow or sluggish drains are best addressed with an auger machine.

AAA AUGER discourages grease or cooking oils from being poured down kitchen sink drains or any other drain. Habitual abuse will inhibit or prevent drainage. Furthermore, animal fat, potato peels and pasta are notorious for stopping up kitchen drains and are better placed in trash receptacles rather than garbage disposals.

AAA AUGER discourages detergents, acids or root deterrents in plumbing systems. Many of these additives contain hazardous chemicals that could ultimately end up in our fresh water sources. Furthermore, many of these chemicals are caustic to pipe and may hasten its deterioration.

To flush your water heater, follow the steps listed below. Please read them completely before performing this procedure.

CAUTION: Flushing a water heater can be dangerous. Be careful and keep children and pets away to prevent scalding during the procedure.

A typical water heater tank holds 30 to 100 gallons of water. Therefore, it is important to select the best location for drainage that presents the fewest undesirable consequences.

Drainage systems made of PVC are not designed to handle temperatures in excess of 140F. Therefore, draining directly into your drainage system can cause serious and costly problems.

Draining a water heater into the yard will likely harm the grass or any vegetation due to the water’s extreme heat.

Draining a water heater onto a driveway or street will likely stain the concrete with rust.

Tools / Equipment Needed :

1. Eye protection
2. Protective gloves
3. Breaker box lock out kit (for electric water heaters without a readily accessible cut-off switch)
4. Quality garden hose capable of withstanding high water temperatures
5. #2 Flathead Screwdriver

Flushing Procedure:

(1) Turn off the power source to the heater. If the heater is equipped with an electrical anode rod, switch off its electricity.

On gas heaters, turn the gas control valve and the gas stop off.

On electric heaters without a readily accessible electrical cut-off switch (electrical switch is in the same room or closet as the heater), turn the relative circuit breaker off and lock the circuit box.

On electric water heaters equipped with a readily accessible cut off switch, place the switch in the off position.

(2) Shut the water off at the cut-off valve on the cold side inlet of the water heater.

Caution : Your water heater may have been installed with a gate valve at the inlet. Gate valves use a round wheel for the handle and require several turns to shut the water off. Gate valves have proven to be unreliable. If so equipped, it may be best to shut the water off at the house’s main cut-off or at the meter. For this application, AAA AUGER recommends that the gate valve be replaced with a ball valve. This will require advanced skill and may be better left to a professional.

(3) Connect the garden hose to the drain valve on the heater.

(4) Terminate the opposite end of the hose to a safe discharge location. The hose should be placed with as few curves as possible.

(5) In the closest bathroom, turn on the hot water completely at the bath tub faucet.

(6) Open the drain valve. If the water flows steadily, continue to step 7.

Note : Mineral clusters may become lodged in the valve preventing the water to drain properly. Should this occur, it may be possible to dislodge or break up the clusters with a screwdriver. Be extra careful to avoid damaging the drain valve.

Servicing the drain valve will require the removal of the garden hose. Before removing the hose, turn off the drain valve and seek other means to best contain or divert the water.

AAA AUGER recommends letting the water in the tank cool before servicing the drain valve to prevent scalding!

Although uncommon, the drain valve may be compacted with mineral deposits. This is a good indicator that the water heater should be replaced and any further efforts to flush the heater may be futile.

(7) Engage the T & P valve (move the small handle upward to the vertical position). Should the handle not maintain its vertical position, the T & P valve must be replaced before re-engaging the water heater.

Engaging the T & P valve will allow the pressure to escape from the tank. If the tank stays pressurized, not only will the water drain slowly, but a vacuum will form and cause undue stress to the tank.

More importantly, the T & P (temperature and pressure) valve is the water heater’s primary safety apparatus. Should the temperature and/or pressure within the tank exceed safe limits, the T & P valve is designed to release the pressure to avoid an explosion.

(8) After the water heater has been drained, close the drain valve, disengage the T & P valve and turn off the bath tub faucet.

(9) Turn the water on and allow the tank to fill. Once filled, again, open the drain valve (with the water supply “on”).

(10) With the water running, allow the water heater to drain until the water is clear and free of debris.

(11) Turn the drain valve off.

(12) Before powering the water heater, verify that the tank has filled completely (listen for water flow at the cold inlet).

(13) In the closest bathroom, turn on the hot water to the bath tub faucet. This will bleed the water system of air and flush residual debris. When bleeding water lines, bathtub faucets are preferred over lavatory or kitchen faucets because they do not typically have aerators (strainers at the end of the faucet) which can become clogged with debris.

It may be necessary to bleed the other faucets as well. Should the water stream be erratic or not uniform, the aerators will need to be unscrewed and cleaned.

(14) Once the system has been bled of air, the water heater is ready to be powered. If equipped with an electrical anode rod, restore its electricity.

Note: Severely neglected systems may require multiple and/or more frequent flushing.

Flushing the Water Heater / Final notes

Detergents

Some professionals recommend that detergents or acid based products be used to help break down the mineral deposits. AAA AUGER does not recommend this process. Although with proper flushing, the potential for health risk is greatly reduced, the detergents can cause the tank and the components within to deteriorate at a faster rate. Furthermore, we believe that any tank that may require such a process is already in need of replacement.

Heaters with Circulating Systems

Due to the various designs of circulating systems, AAA AUGER advises that the manufacturer’s directions be followed when flushing the heater. If the instructions are not easily located, please provide us with the brand, model and/or serial number of the pump and we will attempt to locate them for you.

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